Our good buddy and beekeeper extraordinaire, Jim Hamann, has just delivered the latest batch of his sweet, sticky, and divinely floral micro honey. The honey is collected and processed by Jim from his 3 hives, in seasonal stages. The latest stage- his late summer/ early autumn harvest- is intensely floral, herbaceous and has hints of vanilaa, caramel & toasted brioche!

The delivery Jim brought us is crazy- half of it is the darker, nut brown hue we commonly associate with late harvest honey, and the remainder is slightly tinged pink- a rosé honey! The flavors are similar although the darker honey seems yeasty, malty and more extracted, when the rosé honey is bright reflective of the goldenrod that the bees frequently pollinate. However, both fantastic micro honeys have the overwhelming buttery, sweet and fragrant qualities we have come to love in Jim’s hand-spun honey.

We love using Jim’s honey in vinaigrettes, marinades, as a sweetener in Kate’s favorite cakes and bars, and of
course- just right out of the jar with a big chunk of fudgy, intense blue cheese. Bayley Hazen anyone?

Here’s a a little recipe for one of our favorite salad dressings- Thyme & Honey Vinaigrete, using of course- J.B. Hamann’s honey…

Thyme & Honey Vinaigrette

Ingredients:

3 Tablespoons of lemon juice
Lemon zest from half a lemon
1 small garlic clove, finely minced
1 teaspoon fresh thyme, chopped fine
3 teaspoons Hamann honey
2 teaspoons white balsamic vinegar
½ cup extra virgin olive oil
kosher or sea salt and freshly ground
pepper to taste

Procedure:

1. In a small bowl whisk together all of
the ingredients except the olive oil, salt,
and pepper.

2. While you are whisking, add the olive
oil in a slow, steady stream. Continue
whisking until the vinaigrette is emulsified.
Correct the seasonings- and add more honey or
vinegar if you feel it needs it, and add salt and
pepper to taste. Serve with grilled scallops,
pork chops, or on the end of summer greens.

Two weeks ago, Kate and I decided to take a trip up North, to Greensboro, Vermont, for the opening party at Jasper Hill Farms Cellars. Jasper Hill Farm is built into the vibrant, green shale hillsides of the Northern end of the Green Mountains.

At Jasper Hill, the focus is now not only on artisan cheese production- although they do make some of the best hand crafted cheeses this side of the Mississippi- but on the art of affinage as well. Affinage is the commitment to the handling and management of cheese while it ages. Recently, Jasper Hill has completed the final phase of a multi-million dollar renovation to the farm, in which they have painstakingly built New England’s first affinage center- a giant concrete structure, buried into the hillside where they are, and will be, taking some of Vermont’s finest small farm cheeses from mere sculpted milk, to well aged masterpieces.

The party was already in raucous order when we arrived, complete with 300 people, a grand buffet, a swinging band with packed dance floor and a raging bonfire. These cheese folks know how to party! We decided to split from the crowd after some initial ‘hellos’ to friends, comrades and ‘family members’ of our extended New England artisan cheese family, and head into the intimately lit aging caves.

Inside, we found command central- a new, improved, giant sales office in the middle of the structure. This is where the sales calls would be made, inventory assessed, shipping and procurement determined and invoices processed.

This area was large enough to accommodate up to six or seven call ’stations’, provide enough room for company meetings and maybe even a round or two of jubilant carols come the holiday season- celebrating those size-able & crucial yuletide orders from wholesalers, retailers and consolidators across the country.

From this office, the windows look out onto the aging room floor, where multiple caves push further into the hill to accommodate the growing myriad of collected cheeses from neighboring Vermont dairy farms. We put on our paper booties and hair nets, to be sure not to leave our marks on this sanitary and well maintained environment. As we traveled through a set of multiple doors, we walked into the aging rooms, which awaited our arrival like medieval dungeons, stacked and stocked with cheese prisoners.

The caves were dank, with appropriate levels of moisture, humidity and cool temperature. Kate and I cautiously but ecstatically, explored each cave- the soft ripened room, the washed rind room, the cheddar and pressed cheese room and more. Each cave was well lit, with a new trolley system set up to facilitate the ease of moving large quantities of aging cheese around. These wheeled racks of cheese make it easy for the crew at Jasper Hill to rotate stock and access each particular splendid wheel of cheese, in order to check its condition and to determine its level of readiness.

The floors slick with water to aid in the humid conditions, seemed to cradle the massive trolleys and provide an exponential allotment of aging space- a far cry from the days of yore at Jasper Hill, where the cheeses were held in the basement cave, under the production dairy. These older caves were well maintained and efficient- but seemed like a distant memory, now that we were surrounded by the 10 foot stacks of aging cheese in this new facility. Dusty & musty rinds abound, with perfectly placed labels and tags, and charts in every room, displaying pertinent information on when the cheeses requried any type of maintenance.

Another of the main improvements to the aging caves at Jasper Hill are new steel turning mechanisms, created and hand crafted by a local business, in order to assist in the tedious task of flipping each wheel. In the past, all of these wheels would be turned skillfully by hand- as frequently as every week-and now with one turn of a giant handle, up to 10 wheels can be turned at a time. This unique approach to improving the process of affinage is commendable, and reflective of brothers Andy and Mateo Kehler’s ingenuity.The wheels all looked great, and the gently molted rinds- especially those on the canvassed wheels, were perfectly dusty, yet moist and happy.

Kate and I were most impressed with the washed rind cheese room, where we found some of our favorite cheeses from across Vermont- Dancing Cow Farm’s ‘Menuet’, Twig Farm’s ‘Soft Wheel’, Jasper Hill’s own ‘Winnemere’ and more. The schedule for brushing, washing and other cheese maintenance hung by the entry doors and there were initials and check marks where staff had acknowledged their hard work and the requirements for upcoming days.

Indeed it can be truthfully stated that these washed rind cheeses are by far the most difficult to maintain, with a vigorous washing schedule, and the need for a little more hands-on attention. It was great to think about how many cheesemakers from throughout the state were trusting Jasper Hill to assist in the process of caring for their cheeses. The obvious point of conducting affinage in such a large scale, is to allow these talented cheesemakers to really hone in and focus on what they do best- making cheese. For such small farms as those that Jasper Hill deals with, aging cheeses only mean sitting inventory- so why not clear out those small family owned caves, and send them to the boys at Jasper Hill? This way, cheesemakers can turn the stock over quicker, ensure a consistent buyer in Jasper Hill and get back to the focus of making amazing cheeses. Sounds like a win-win to me. Through this process, Jasper Hill not only handles all affinage, but also will help promote and market the cheeses from small, family owned dairy farms.

This was a magical night. To get a tour of the caves at Jasper Hill is to see how there might be hope for small family farms, yet. From this location in Greensboro, Jasper Hill will now act as the consolidation hub for the entire state- solidifying buyers and continuing to develop relationships with wholesale customers, and providing the opportunity for continued exposure for a collection of well crafted- and now meticulously cared for- American artisan cheeses. Can Jasper Hill save the history of the small, family owned dairy, by making them more sustainable? It seems possible, and we are excited for them and us- now as wholesale ’shoppers’, we can place an order for delivery of a wide array of superbly produced cheese.

Kate and I exited the caves after an hour or so, and returned to the fiesta going on outside, in the crisp, Vermont night. The beer was flowing like a river out of the kegerator, and there was a table of sliced Constant Bliss awaiting our perusal. We strolled up the other side of the hill and sat by the bonfire, watched the guests dance the night away and reflected on how lucky we are to be involved in such an amazing industry.

We caught up with old friends- Debra Dickerson of Neal’s Yard Dairy, food writer and culinary ‘provocateur’, Nathalie Jordi, our great friends and cheesemakers Steve and Karen Getz of Dancing Cow Farm and others. This was a night to celebrate the glory of the American artisan cheese movement. We feel so blessed to be in such great company- this night and forever. Keep up the great work Kehler brothers and staff. We and the cheese are much, much better for it…..-Matt

As some of you may know, us Farmsteaders are in love with the process of making food by hand. Not only do we love to eat it and make it, but we love to watch it being made, learn about the history and culture around food and share these experiences with our friends and customers.

Recently, we took a little trip up to Vermont and New York for our latest ‘Pasture & Plate’ experience- a chance to bring our staff, local chefs, and some devote customers to the doorstep of the artisan cheese world. On these trips, we meet cheesemakers, discuss with them-and amongst each other- how to continue to support local and sustainable agriculture and food production, watch firsthand as New England craft cheeses get molded and aged right in front of our very eyes, and share in the experiences that occur when real, honest and good food brings people together.

For the most recent trip this Summer, we visited three of our favorite cheesemakers in New England: Taylor Farms in Londonderry, 3 Corner Field Farm in Shushan, New York & Consider Bardwell Farm in West Pawlet, Vermont. These three farms offered three very different views into American cheesemaking and tempted us with the fresh milk of cows, goats and sheep. Our first stop was in Shushan, New York to see 3 Corner Field Farm.

In the gorgeous Battenkill River Valley, at the misty stoop of the Green Mountains, sits a 100 acre farm that was established as an original New York homestead in 1840. Karen Weinberg, Paul Borghard and daughters are the third family to craft clean, pure, wholesome and delicious dairy products from this spectacular tract of land. Karen and Paul moved to the 100 acre parcel in Washington County, New York, in the late 1980s with the dream of one day becoming full-time farmers. After living on the farm for a few years, they gave in to a neighbor’s suggestion and acquired two lambs to help keep grass and weeds under control near the property’s stream-bed.

Soon, the farm became a haven for local lambs in need of a loving home, and constant care. One lamb led to another—and another. Paul and Karen realized how sheep are extremely versatile animals—yielding meat, milk, and fiber—and how they are a good choice for the type of land in rural, Northern New York. Hence, the next logical step was raising dairy sheep and lamb full-time

Today, the family raises more than 150 sheep and over 300 lambs on the sustainable farm, providing wholesome lamb meat, and sheep goods- including of course dairy and wool- locally and now, across the county. Their cheeses range in style- from fresh, young and tangy, to aged, earnest and robust. Some of our favorites are ‘Brebis Blanche’-a young, yogurty delicacy-and ‘Battenkill Brebis’, a simple but perfectly crafted tomme, with flavors of caramel, pasture and honeysuckle. When you come to Farmstead, just ask what we have in the way of new arrivals from 3 Corner Field.

Our second stop on our artisan cheese tour of New England, was Taylor Farm. Owned by Jonathan and Kate Wright and family, Taylor Farm produces some of the best American style (and award winning) Gouda cheeses in the country from their herd of about 60 cows on their 180 year old farm. Currently about 1,200 pounds of cheese is produced at Taylor Farm every week.

Each batch of tasty Gouda is made by hand, every day. The Wrights are committed to producing cheese from fresh milk which has no growth hormones added. The cows are milked twice daily and in many instances the cheese is made with milk so fresh it has come from the cows within the hour. The cows graze on 180 year old permanent pastures free from pesticides, herbicides and chemical fertilizers.

The hay that Taylor Farm uses to feed the cows is from their own fields and the grain they use is custom blended. Several traditional and contemporary varieties of Gouda are made at Taylor Farm. After a minimum of two months of aging the wheels of cheese are ready for your table. Taylor Farm Gouda is a creamy, semi-firm cheese.

Jon Wright’s cheeses challenge our preconceptions of what Gouda should be- ‘It’s that nutty cheese from Holland’. Not so much- the cheeses crafted here at Taylor, with respect to age old tradition, turn out entirely different than their cousins from across the drink- these New England varieties are vegetative, dense, creamy, fudgy, supple and clean. Some of the flavors we find in Jon’s cheeses are toasted nut, pasture, summer grass and fresh creamery butter. Hard to go wrong. In every sense of the word, this is groovy Gouda- and the flavor and mouth feel showcases just how all of these efforts translate.

Our last visit on our great New England cheese trip, was to Consider Bardwell Farm, in West Pawlet, Vermont. Believe it or not, but this great 300 acre farm- once property of the famed Consider Bardwell and his wife, Experience, was the first cheese making co-op in Vermont, founded in 1864. Now, a century later, Russell Glover and Angela Miller, with cheesemaker Peter Dixon, are revitalizing the tradition with goats’ milk from their herd of Oberhasli Goats. Rotational grazing on pesticide-free and fertilizer-free pastures produces the sweetest milk and the tastiest cheese this side of the Adirondacks.

Consider Bardwell Farm is made complete- not solely by the quality of the animal’s milk, although this of course has a lot to do with it, but by the quality and skill of the craftsman, herd leader and world renowned cheesemaker extraordinaire they have behind the moulds- Peter Dixon. All cheesemaking endeavors here are directed and led by Master Cheesemaker, Dixon, who has been involved in artisanal cheesemaking in Vermont since the early 1980’s. Peter has worked with many of the regions best producers, including Cato Corner Farm in Connecticut, Vermont Shepherd, Woodcock Farm, Taylor Farm and Cobb Hill Farm, all in Vermont- just to name a few. You have to understand that meeting Peter for any Quesophile, is a true pleasure and kind of like meeting a cheese god. This guy is cheese. He embodies and exemplifies what it means to be dedicated to the craft of handmade dairy products.

Russell and Angela raise Oberhasli (also known as Swiss Alpine) goats at Consider Bardwell. The herd of 70 goats grows every spring as new kids begin to arrive in April. The goats graze rotationally on pesticide-free and fertilizer-free pastures. The cleanliness of the goat’s life translates directly to the quality of the cheese they produce. Their cheese- this sort of snapshot of Southern Vermont terroir- is anything but normal. Although the styles may replicate those of ancient European recipe, they are truly reflective of a newer, more contemporary approach to artisan cheesemaking. The variety of styles produced here at the farm are amazing, and each cheese is different and unique.

Take for example the fresh, crisp and pasteurized ‘Mettowee’, named for the local river valley. It is dense and spreadable, but crumbles as well, striking the perfect textural balance of a fresh cheese. The flavor is vibrant and tart and it is suitable for not only more savory applications, but for sweet as well: use it in recipes requiring mascarpone or ricotta.

There is also the hard to get ‘Manchester’, an aged, raw-milk, washed-rind goat’s milk peasant tomme. This cheese has a nutty and earthy rustic bite; however due to rotational grazing on pasture and the aging process itself, each batch has a distinct note. Our latest wheel at Farmstead was heady, sweet and reeked of damp hay. This is THE cheese for the true goat connoisseur. Not overbearing or too ’stinky’, it is harmonious and deeply charismatic.

Peter’s cheeses are among some of the best in the United States right now, without doubt. As we have seen with many other farms, when the stars align and the best possible combination of human skill, gracious environment and a little luck all come together, the end result is a product which becomes legendary and to which all cheeses there after will be compared to. This is the type of cheese that Peter makes. And the type that we all love to eat.

This was a great visit to some of our region’s best cheesemakers. We are planning our next “Pasture & Plate” excursion for sometime in early October. If you are interested in joining us, please drop us an email at info@farmsteadinc. com, as we would like to begin to open these trips up to the public. Until then, live well, eat better and don’t forget to stop and smell the cheese.